Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Lambeau Travelogue

It looks suspiciously as if it is going to be a long year. If the Packers can't beat the Browns at home, on a day they retire Reggie White's jersey, and when Favre throws three touchdown passes and sets two records, then you can't count on much in Titletown.

Since I am in no mood to rehash Sunday's game, I was searching around for an idea of something else to write about for my long-overdue column. VOILA! My friend Peter Chen, a Northern California attorney with whom I worked years ago, and who is in my fantasy football league to this day, took his son Andrew (a huge Brett Favre fan) to Green Bay for the game as a 15th birthday present. Peter then sent me an account of the weekend's festivities. It serves as a reminder of how fortunate we have been to have Brett Favre with us these many years. If you have a son or daughter who would appreciate going to see Brett Favre play at Lambeau Field, you might want to get cracking since, the way things are going, you probably have exactly 7 more chances to do it.

Anyway, here is a slightly edited version of Peter's account. I have agreed to give him half my fee for writing this column (remedial math lesson: 1/2 x $0 = $0).


5 pm: arrive Green Bay, after a flight from O'Hare that included a few Browns fans from the famed "Dawg Pound." One funny exchange during the flight:

Dawg Pound guy: Hey lady, are you going to the game too?

Elderly Lady: No, I'm from Eugene, Oregon. I'm going on a scenic bike tour of Wisconsin!

Dawg Pound Guy: a bike tour?! Whoa. I think I've had a few too many!

The flight lands safely, and the Dawg Pound heads for parts unknown.

Our hotel is 2 blocks from Lambeau; both are on Lombardi Avenue.... we wander over to Lambeau. Andrew buys a cheesehead at the Packer Pro Shop, which he proceeds to wear for most of the weekend.

A wedding party emerges from the stadium.... According to the tour guides, Lambeau is booked solid for weddings for the next 18 months! It's a destination wedding site.

The stadium was redone in 2003, and has wide concourses and Camden Yards-like brick everywhere, along with a 5-story enclosed Atrium housing the pro shop, sports bar, ice cream parlor, and the Packers Hall of Fame.

6:30 pm: the wait at Brett Favre's Steakhouse for dinner is long (they don't take reservations on home game weekends), so we opt for a snack of mini-burgers, chicken wings and ale/root beer at Curly's Pub, the sports bar and restaurant inside Lambeau. As the food arrives, the big screen shows Michigan State beating Notre Dame in OT. Curly's erupts into a mixture of cheers and groans.

9:45: dinner at Brett Favre's Steakhouse. There are lots of photos of Brett and other Packers all over the walls. Brett playing youth football in Kiln, MS. Brett winning the Super Bowl.... etc. Brett was there on Friday, says our waitress...the restaurant is at the end of a little alley near Lambeau, called... Brett Favre Pass. Pretty good steaks.


By 10 a.m., Holmgren Way is teeming with tailgaters, and a gazillion Packer fans wearing # 4 Favre jerseys and # 92 Reggie White jerseys.

We wade through a sea of tailgaters in the parking lot, and go inside Lambeau to the Hall of Fame. My favorite exhibits are the life size re-enactment of the Bart Starr QB sneak in the 1967 NFL title game, the story of the Lambeau Leap, and the replica lockers of Packers in the NFL Hall of Fame.

1:30: into the stadium, for pregame warmups. This was fun -- Andrew and I, and hundreds of others, watched the entire Packer warmup, leaning on the rail at Row 1, not more than 20 yards from the field!

Favre and ex-Cal QB, Aaron Rodgers, run the offense. Rodgers must be on Cloud Nine. It's his first (regular season) game at Lambeau.

By the time warmups ended, the stadium was packed, and kickoff was only 20 minutes away. Yet not one fan or security guy asked anyone to move. At most pro or college sports events, you get ordered to "find your seat" long before the game starts. Not at Lambeau.

There were many fans holding signs reading, "My 1st Packer Game," as it is hard to get tickets. (The waiting list for season tickets is about 60,000, and very few become available every year.)

3:15: The Packers are retiring # 92 of the late Reggie White. His daughter sings the National Anthem...4 F-16 jets fly over...the place goes nuts.

The stadium is more like a college facility -- a fairly steep bowl with about 70 rows of aluminum bench seats, bleacher style. There are club level enclosed seats and luxury boxes too.

After all that, the Packers then proceed to lose to the lowly Browns, 26-24!? The Lambeau home field advantage seems to be dissolving, as the Packers are 4-6 in their last 10 Lambeau games.

Favre has a record-setting day. He tosses 3 TDs (breaking an NFL record for most TDs in one stadium) and throws for over 300 yards (joining Marino and Elway in the 50,000 yard club). But the Packers D, which surrenders a career day to Trent Dilfer, could've used Reggie White!

I'd recommend a road trip to Lambeau, for all. There aren't any other pro football teams that play in a college atmosphere, in such an historic stadium. And if you go in September, the tundra won't be frozen.

Post game, we had an ice cream at the "Frozen in Time" ice cream parlor inside the Atrium. We then bumped into Reggie White's family as they were heading out! His son looks ready to suit up for the Pack. They could use some help on D.

Next, we went back to the pro shop for one last souvenir hunt, and then upstairs to Curly's for more brats. We watched the Sunday night game and Sunday night baseball on the big screens. A father and son in the booth across from us ask us where we're from.... they were from Los Angeles, and were also on a pilgrimage to Lambeau! After 30 minutes of conversation, it turns out he's swimmer Mike O'Brien, 1984 Olympic gold medalist! Nice guy too. A fun way to finish up the weekend.

My son is 15, a sophomore in high school, and with his school schedule and my work schedule, we can go for days without much meaningful interaction. So it was great just to be with him for a weekend, and super special for that weekend to be at such a sports shrine.